On pilgrimage (with Taybeh in hand!)

And so, with a final look across the rooftops of the Old City, and sip of Taybeh (www.taybehbeer.com) with new friends, I pack up from Ecce Homo, Jerusalem, and get ready for the early morning ‘newspaper taxi’ to take me to Nazareth, and to the friends and project partners in the north.

A couple of these new friends have been taking pilgrimage seriously, walking from Paris to Jerusalem with a letter of authority from their Bishop in hand, and dropping in on pilgrim houses and monastries all along the route. At each place they have collected a ‘stamp’ of proof in a sort of pilgrim passport they carry with them. Every stamp a memory too I guess. Arriving in Israel a week ago, they walked down from Haifa, and have been in Ecce Homo, Via Dolorosa for the last few days making it to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre today…..the focus of their long walk. All very Canterbury Tales….but without the rather odd companions that Chaucer wrote about!

Wow, what commitment, what focus, and what a journey – all proved by these stamps which they proudly showed to me. It made me think what ‘stamps’ I had collected along my journey of faith, and what commitment it takes to keep the focus.

Anyway – cheers…time for bed!

A Church for all Nations

So the day began with the usual hilarity over breakfast – an Englishman with failed French ‘O’ level attempting to communicate with a table full of pilgrims from Italy, France, Thailand and New York. Felt like I was in the Tower of Babel as we ate toast with strange jam, cheese and olives, and sliced egg, whilst trying to tell each other what our plans for the day were. Anyway, we played a game with our names as we introduced ourselves again to new people who had arrived – I am Ian White, Jovani Bianco, Jean le Blanc (a personal favourite), and in Arabic Hanna Abiad. White is a good surname to translate.

Reflected a bit more on the Tower of Babel story as I walked out along the Via Dolorosa and through Lions Gate to Gethsemane later in the day. Sitting in The Church of all Nations at the foot of Gethsemane and listening to the quiet murmured prayers and occasional singing in a variety of languages, I just thanked God that in Christ there is a Church for all Nations – and we aren’t some kind of monochrome mass. Somehow not understanding the words sometimes actually frees you to appreciate how the gospel is for All – and how the Good News has carried itself around the world through all cultures. As an old hymn says “For All, for All my Jesus died; For All, for All was crucified”.

Mind you, the moment changed a bit when an American group came in and sang ‘Abide with me’…. all I could think of at that moment was the FA Cup at Wembley!

My mum’s birthday tomorrow, so I was thanking God for her especially, and sad not to be with her over the weekend.

Dancing at The Western Wall

So, wanting to check out the new Rambam synagogue, I head for the Jewish Quarter via the Western Wall. Lots of live music, water, and strange cakes – “free my friend, you must have some…please”, I was caught up in a vast circular dance with hundreds of cheery Orthodox Jewish men, all celebrating, clapping, and rhythmically moving towards the Western Wall to pray. Well…..it would be a shame to let them down, and they did seem very friendly – so join in and dance I did (think lots of Dad dancing by men in black hats). Quite obviously I am looking a little more Jewish today. But not enough for the Rambam synagogue 30 minutes later – “sorry, no, we are at prayer”.

Recovered with mint tea whilst chatting to my Armenian friend Kevork in Elia Photos, Christian Quarter (www.eliaphotos.com), about forgiveness and family. Elia Photos is the best photo shop in Jerusalem, with some great material going back into the 1880’s…..and yes, I did buy another one!

Mrs Betty Majaj – A Very Important Servant

Had an interesting morning on the Mount of Olives visiting one of the Micah68 project partners – The Jerusalem Princess Basma Center (www.basma-centre.org) and having coffee and lunch with Mrs Betty Majaj and members of the staff of a place I have had a links with since 1998 (which made me feel old!) Great to see some work still around the place from old Highway Projects days, and good to be able to arrange the handover of a Micah68 gift to the work there to help continue this important work. Earlier this year after 30 years of service to the community via the Basma Center Mrs Majaj (very occasionally Betty) was awarded the title ‘The First and Most Distinguished Lady of Jerusalem 2012’ by Mahmoud Abbas(and yes – she has the prize to prove it). Naturally I bowed in her presence, which made her laugh a lot. Not a bad title for someone who regards herself as a servant of The Servant King, and many of us regard as one of life’s saints.

Oh, and after that I had coffee at Jaffa Gate with my old friend Sohil Haj (which made me feel even older!)…..a man who has several titles including Mr Nadi al Mahaba. If you know these guys, and want to add your own titles to these VIS’s…..please do….

Lots of room here in Bethlehem!

Currently in the offices of Bethlehem Fair Trade Artisans (www.bethlehemfairtrade.org) just off Manger Square, looking across the hills in brilliant sunshine, and discussing fair trade and justice with Suzan Sahori, Lana and friends from a Micah68 link project over very strong coffee! Check out their work, and ways to support them on Micah68. Best falafel in town at Afteem!