The streets of (in)difference

A tough crossing back from Jordan to Israel/Palestine yesterday…..too long waiting for a Jordanian border crossing bus on one side, and then delibrately chaotic passport control on the Israeli side wasted 3 hours of life in 43 degree heat. Lovely. But back in Nazareth, and readying today for the next stage of the trip – a transfer to Ibillin, where the friendships and ministry all started back in the mid ’90’s. Sohil Haj and the Mafia (his sons) are on the way to collect me even as I type!

Jostling through the old city of Nazareth, through the souk in the glaring sun on my way for a drink in Tishreen (trendy coffee shop frequented by young trendy Nazarenes…hence why I fitted in quite well) – and seeing coachloads of tourists pile out of bus 11 from the Haifa cruise ship, produced the following thoughts yesterday. Forgive the poor prose…I am working on poetry!

The streets of (in)difference

Glazed and glare; did I see you there – or was I distracted by the shiny new souvenir, the cry of the (too) loudspeaker, the endless photo opportunity, the tour guide’s sharp instruction to take care, the IPad moment, the text coming in (causing me to move my fingers instinctively to make my connection with those a thousand miles away)?

Glare and glazed; was I so phased – I missed the poverty incoveniently laid out at my feet, the haunted eyes of the broken, the grubby handed, the staining dirt, the stark injustice, the lack of choice and crying pain?

I glaze and I glare – as I pilgrim on the streets of (in)difference, snatching at Jesus.

IW – Tishreen, Nazareth, 14/7/12

Handala and meanings of Home

Just back from Souk Jara (a pre-Ramadan open market just off 1st Circle, Rainbow Street, Amman for those who know), where I had a good chat with a really nice Palestinian couple selling some trendy pottery (too heavy) and some handpainted Handala cartoons and Mahmoud Darwish poetry (lighter – and so I bought a small one). They still describe themselves as refugees, although they have lived in Jordan all their lives. It led to an interesting conversation about ‘homeland’ and ‘home’.

Handala is a famous cartoon figure in the Middle East drawn by cartoonist Naji Al-Ali (go search for examples!). In every cartoon Handala’s back is turned to the world and he is watching the action in the cartoon, inviting the viewer to do the same. Sometimes he takes part in the action in the cartoon, but generally looks on. Handala means ‘medicinal bitter desert fruit’ in Arabic. Handala was born ten years old and remains ten years old, the age Naji Al-Ali was when he was expelled from his village in 1948. Two out of every three Palestinians were expelled from their homes when Israel was established in that year. They have not been allowed home and so remain refugees.

Darwish’s poetry complements this aching observation of life in the Middle East for those calling themselves refugees. He writes not just for Palestine, but for all refugees – as Naji Al-Ali drew for all marginalised people. Check out http://www.poemhunter.com/poem/i-come-from-there/ for one of Darwish’s poems to get the idea.

So, here I am travelling, listening, talking, praying and supporting where I can – which I love and feel God has called me to do. But I travel not as a refugee….and I go back to my homeland in the UK next week – and then to the places, family and friends I call ‘home’ in the north of England. In the words of Darwish ‘I come from there’, and although as a Christian I know known the scripture ‘we have no abiding city’, I also know the rootedness of earthly ‘home’.

A brief chat on a sunny, crowded market street with some lovely people still aching for ‘home’. Maybe something to reflect on…….

Swans, hearts, Mansaf and camels (of course)

OK, so how did a swan and a large heart get onto my bed whilst I’ve been out? Yes, it’s amazing what hotel staff can do with bath towels and bedspreads nowadays! Anybody got any other random towelling origami stories?

Had a great day down in the Jordan Valley at the Jofeh Center (www.jofehcenter.org) with Yousef Rizik and the amazing staff and volunteers. Amal – a star member of the staff – provided a special meal of Mansaf (the traditional Jordanian celebration dish – lamb cooked in jameed – a sauce of fermented dried yogurt – and served with rice, almonds and pine nuts with spicy baharat on top). This is a great honour as Mansaf is the greatest symbol in the Jordanian culture for generosity, and is not an everyday meal. But that’s what I keep finding down in the Valley – generous people trying to change their own situations, and those of the disabled children and marginalised women down there.

Wa’ed, another of the key staff at the Center was doing an amazing job co-ordinating a kids summer camp, which seemed to be on the subject of transport….roads, cars, planes, trains were everywhere. Anyway, everyone was having a great time – the Shaun the Sheep Youtube clip (spot the transport link??) went down well…as did the dancing (yes, more random dancing from Ian to the strange delight of the staff and children… mmmmm).

A tour around the workshops, and I was able to share that due to a generous gift in recent days Micah68 will be able to send the target money for the scroll saws (see the 2012 project on http://www.micah6-8.org.uk/jordan.html). So now we plan for 2013 – and the supplying of some industrial sewing machines.

But could I escape Yousef’s insistent pushing of Christmas trees, silk purses, olive wood angels and of course, the camels?  Of course not, and so I have a small bag full to take back to Israel, and then get home to the UK. “These will be good for you to sell at Christmas Ian…….tell your friends about us, and the goods we are making to help the poor and marginalised down here”. Yes I will Yousef, yes I will…..

 

 

Crossing the Jordan……and burning, burning in the Valley!

A late night in Nazreth with too much barbequed chicken and ‘sheep liver’ (‘It’s delicious Iron….have some more”) but ending with some great conversations about the importance of real faith in Christ – and what type of Jesus actually lived in Nazareth all those years ago. Early morning fruit and English tea, and then a dash for the border.

So, crossing the Jordan here I am in a country I really like (maybe because the Jordanian security guys at the border crossing with Israel are so much more friendly!). I enter a country of huge contrasts. Masses of money pouring in from Iraqis and Libyans relocating to modern Amman….and extreme poverty in the Jordan Valley where I started my day in Kreimeh – the site for the new Rehabilitation and Vocational centre being developed by Brother Andrew and Yousef Rizik. Bare earth a few months ago, already you can see the start of something significant for the care of disabled people in that area. But heck, was it hot….it felt like my head was being pickled, and my toes being burnt as I stood there listening to the explanation of what it will all look like.

Then down another 60 kilometres to the Jofeh centre (www.jofehcenter.org) – one of the Micah Projects, to be greeted by staff and volunteers with ‘breakfast’ (yes, more hummous, foul (beans), tomatoes, pitta and something very hot in a small bowl…again, more burning!). A sense of being home – I’ve been coming here for 7 years, and really good to see how it has developed and how some of the women are really being empowered to run the centre in the future (Amal and Wa’ed for those who know them). It really gives a tremendous sense of what the new centre in Kreimeh is going to do in the future, and how lives can be transformed in so many different ways.

Tomorrow it’s back to the Valley – repeat after me “water, hat, suncream Ian”.

 

 

Taize in Nazareth

Greetings from Nazareth – the city of many friends including Martina and Elias at Cactus (www.nazarethbathhouse.com) and the Mazzawi Brothers Naim, Rami & Basil. They are a bit like the Three Musketeers and a late meal in the restuarant Rida was a great occasion of catching up, and hearing all about Rami’s recent engagement. (Many women across the world now crying at such a loss…..).

The meal followed a time of Taize worship in the chapel of the Little Brothers of Charles de Foucauld, attended by various Christians from across the city, and put together by Basil Mazzawi. I had the privilege of leading the English readings, and the songs – “Sing praises all you peoples, sing praises to the Lord”, “Within the darkest night, you kindle the fire that never dies away”, “Stay with us O Lord Jesus Christ, night will soon fall. Then stay with us O Lord Jesus Christ, light in our darkness”. I read some words of Brother Roger of Taize which were quite a challenge – “Jesus, love of all my loving, you were always in me and I was forgetting you. You were in my heart of hearts, and I was looking for you elsewhere. When I kept myself far from you, you were waiting for me. And now I dare to tell you: ‘Christ, you are my life'”.

My friendship with the Mazzawi’s started some years ago when I walked into their shop, and heard Taize music being played. Naim wore a Taize cross, and talked to me about the Spirit of Christ – language I understood from my time at Taize in the past. It is great to be able to share food, friendship and worship with these very modern Nazarenes. I write my blog from their shop, with the song ‘Yes, I shall see the goodness of our God – hold firm – trust in the Lord’ playing in the background. An encouraging word for us all.

Charles de Foucauld wrote a famous Prayer of Abandonment that I carry in my Bible:

Father,
I abandon myself into your hands;
do with me what you will.
Whatever you may do, I thank you:
I am ready for all, I accept all.

Let only your will be done in me,
and in all your creatures –
I wish no more than this, O Lord.

Into your hands I commend my soul:
I offer it to you with all the love of my heart,
for I love you, Lord, and so need to give myself,
to surrender myself into your hands without reserve,
and with boundless confidence,
for you are my Father.

Salaam from Nazareth.